Cannaregio: District and Attractions
Cannaregio: District and Attractions. Cannaregio is the northernmost and the second largest district of the city of Venice. It also has the largest population, of around 11,000 people,
However, unlike the crowded tourist hubs of San Marco, Northern Cannaregio retains a peaceful and distinct authentic atmosphere; with quiet canals, artisan shops, and traditional osterias. In contrast, running along the southern boundary and behind the Grand Canal is the bustling and wide Strada Nova, offering a quick walking route from the Railway Station to the Rialto bridge.
It may well have taken its name from the Canal Regio (Regal Canal), which fed into the Grand Canal and was the main entrance for visitors to Venice, before the construction of a railway link into Venice in 1846. Others claim it was once known as “Cannarecium”, from its numerous marshy reed beds.
Cannaregio offers wonderful photographic opportunities – it’s three parallel canal systems and fondamente running east-west, are especially magical during sunsets and early morning mists. From the north coast’s Fondamenta Nuove, there are spectular views across the lagoon to Venice’s cemetery island, “Isola di San Michele”, the numerous fascinating navigation pole systems and views across the Venetia plain, to the far off Dolomite mountains.
Perfect for travellers seeking a more genuine Venetian experience, Cannaregio combines rich heritage with everyday life, making it a must-visit destination in Venice.
Main Attractions of Cannaregio District
Great Walking Tour of the District of Cannaregio
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Main Attractions of Cannaregio District
This section was developed from the 11th century onwards. As the area was drained, parallel canals were dredged and the area became known for its working class housing with some grand palaces; many facing the Grand Canal and also a few very fine churches. It later became known for manufacturing.
In the 19th century, civil engineers built a street named Strada Nuova through southern Cannaregio, and a railway bridge and road bridge were constructed to connect Venice directly to Mestre, on the main land. At the very western edge of the district is the 20th century Stazione Santa Lucia (railway station). The church of St Lucia and several palaces were demolished to make way for the new construction.
To the north is an area containing wide parallel canals and their fondamenti, which run in an east-west direction. This area has a special unpretentious but real-life quality, away from the crowds.
Here can be found the wonderful Gothic church of Madonna dell’Orto, associated with Tintoretto. (Photo left)
The great artist (1518-94), lived nearby and is buried here; much of the interior is decorated with some of his most powerful works, including the “Making of the Golden Calf” and the “LastJudgement”. Tintoretto’s tomb is marked by a simple plaque in the chapel to the right of the chancel.
Founded in the 14th century, the church was originally dedicated to St Christopher, the patron saint of travellers, but was demoted in 1377. The whole church was rebuilt between 1399 and 1473, a light and balanced brick structure, whose harmonious facade is topped by an onion shaped cupola; balanced by a slender campanile. St Christopher is found over the main door.
Close by is the odd shaped Campo dei Mori, probably the home of Arab merchants and where three 13th century stone figures of Moors, set in the walls of buildings can be found. They are clad in flowing robes and wearing turbans. Around the corner at No. 3339 is Tintoretto’s house (b. Jacopo Robusta 1518-94), where another Moorish figure can be seen.
Overlooking the Fondamente Nuovo and the lagoon is the Jesuit church of Santa Maria Assunta, commonly called the Gesuiti (photo below) and a masterpiece of the Baroque era. The Jesuits, with their close links to the Papacy were refused entry in Venice for 50 years during the 17th century and it was not until 1715, that they commissioned Domenico Rossi to build the church. The interior is in a highly decorative style, with a fine Titian painting (The Martyrdom of St Lawrence).
Cannaregio: District and Attractions Cannaregio: District and Attractions Cannaregio: District and Attractions
About 400 metres northeast into the lagoon on the Isola di San Michele is the cemetery (cimitero) of Venice, characterised by rose red walls and many tall cypress trees. The church of San Michele designed by Mauro Coducci in 1469, was Venice’s first Renaissance church. Originally two islands; San Michele and San Cristoforo, the canal separating them was filled in during 1836. Peaceful, well-kept with graves covered in flowers, it is a wonderful retreat from the bustle of the city. Celebrities found here are Sergei Diaghilev(1872-1929) the Russian ballet dancer, Igor Stravinsky (1882-1971) and American poet Ezra Pound (1885-1972).
Above: A quiet canal in Cannaregio
The Grand Canal forming the southern boundary is lined with many beautiful palaces in various architectural styles; one of the finest being the Ca’ d’Or, a flamboyant masterpiece of Gothic architecture.
It was commissioned in 1420 by the merchant Marino Contarini and built between 1421 and 1431, when its facade was decorated with expensive vermilion, ultramarine and gold leaf. It then under went significant decline, until the end of the 19th century, when art enthusiast Baron Franchetti, restored and revitalised it; filling the building with paintings, sculptures and coins. Finally, he gifted it to the state in 1916. Today, it is a light and modern art gallery, occupying two floors.
Behind these palaces runs the Strada Nuova (photo left); a bustling wide shopping street built in the 19th century that forms the quickest pedestrian route between the Rialto area and the railway station.
To the east of the district, is one of the oldest parts of the city, close to the Rialto. Here can be found Santa Maria dei Miracoli, the Renaissance jewel of a church, built between 1481-9 by the Lombardo family to house a miracle-working painting of the Virgin Mary by Niccolo di Pietro; which still hangs over the alter. Also known as the “marble church”, it is one of the best examples of the early Venetian Renaissance including coloured marble, a false colonnade on the exterior walls (pilasters) and a semicircular pediment. The church was subject to a major and expensive restoration between 1987. All marble cladding was removed, cleaned and reinstated.
The interior is enclosed by a wide barrel vault, with a single nave. The nave is dominated by an ornamental marble stair rising between two pulpits, with statues by Tullio Lombardo, Alessandro Vittoria and Niccolò di Pietro. The vaulted ceiling is divided into fifty coffers decorated with paintings of prophets, a work by Girolamo Pennacchi’s contemporaries, Vincenzo dalle Destre and Lattanzio da Rimini.
Finally, just to the north of the confluence of the Cannaregio and Grand canals are the Ghetto Nuovo (photo below) and Ghetto Vecchio; an area of great historical and cultural significance to the Venetian Jews with its own unique atmosphere. Beginning in 1516, Jews were restricted to living in the Venetian Ghetto. It was enclosed by guarded gates and no one was allowed to leave from sunset to dawn. However, Jews held successful positions in the city such as merchants, physicians, money lenders, and other trades. Restrictions on daily Jewish life continued for more than 270 years until Napoleon Bonaparte conquered the Venetian Republic in 1797. He removed the gates and gave all residents the freedom to live where they chose.
Cannaregio Walking Tour Itinerary (suggest half-day)
Cannaregio is one of Venice’s most authentic and atmospheric districts, rich in history, art, and local life. Here’s a suggested walking tour itinerary that blends its wonderful parallel three canal system, iconic landmarks with hidden gems and great views and photo opportunities.
I have made a faily detailed route to give you a great experience of the more northern part of this wonderful district, because the network of narrow lanes and many dead-ends!
I have included links to all my relevant and comprehensive posts where available, at the end of each section of the walk.
Starting Point: The Fondamenta of the Santa Lucia Railway Station.
- Begin your tour at the main train station, a convenient entry point into Cannaregio.
- Walk a short distance east and climb the Scalzi Bridge, that gives great views in both directions over the Grand Canal.
- Proceed along the Rio Terra Lista di Spagna, to the Campo San Geremia and its church. This overlooks the wide Cannaregio Canal, once the main entry point into Venice.
- Cross the impressive stone Ponte di Guglie with its two obelisks and turn left towards the Guglie vaporetto stop. Just past this, turn into the narrow Sottoportego del Ghetto Vecchio, which leads to the Ghetto Nuovo (“New Ghetto”), and the adjacent larger Ghetto Vecchio (“Old Ghetto”).
- Santa Lucia Train Station
- Bridges of the Grand Canal
Ghetto Nuovo (“New Ghetto”), and the adjacent Ghetto Vecchio (“Old Ghetto”).
- Explore Europe’s first Jewish Ghetto, established in 1516.
- Visit the Jewish Museum and several historic synagogues. note the unusuaully high blocks for Venice.
- Learn about the area’s unique architecture and cultural legacy.
- Cross the bridge on to the Fondamenta dei Ormesini over the Rio della Misericordia.
- Walk east along the Rio, a few hundred metres, until you get to a bridge crossing to the Church of San Marziale on the southside and take the next turning north into the Campiello d Trevisan; which quickly leads you to the next parallel canal, the Rio della Sensa.
- Walk west a few hundred metres along the Rio della Sensa, until you come to the Campo dei Mori.
- The Jewish Ghetto of Venice
Campo dei Mor
- Famed for its trio of stone statues embedded in the surrounding buildings, these statues represent the Mastelli brothers-Rioba, Sandi, and Afani, who were wealthy merchants, possibly dealing in silk or spices, and settled in Venice around the early 12th C. Legend has it they defrauded a devout woman who prayed for divine justice, resulting in the brothers being turned to stone.
- The most iconic figure is Antonio Rioba, whose statue features an iron nose added in the 19th century. Locals believe that rubbing his nose brings good luck. Some lovely old wooden doors to admire and photograph as well.
Tintoretto’s House
The birthplace and former residence of Jacopo Robusti, known as Tintoretto – one of the greatest painters of the Venetian Renaissance. Born here in 1519, Tintoretto lived and worked in this Gothic-style house.
- A notable detail is the marble relief of Hercules with a club, believed to have been placed by Tintoretto himself. The house also once housed his printmaking workshop, which has been revived as the Bottega del Tintoretto, a cooperative studio for artists today.
- Stroll northwards up the Campo dei Mori to reach another parallel canal, and over the bridge to the Rio Madonna dell’Orto and turn left onto the campo of the church of the Madonna dell’Orto.
Madonna dell’Orto
- Admire Tintoretto’s masterpieces in this stunning Gothic church, built around 1350. The artist himself is buried here.
- Originally dedicated to St. Christopher, the church later gained its name from a miraculous statue of the Virgin Mary placed in a nearby garden by sculptor Giovanni De Santi
- Its façade features intricate brickwork and a rose window, while the interior boasts impressive artworks and a serene atmosphere that reflects Venice’s rich spiritual and artistic heritage
- Madonna dell’Orto
Madonna dell’Orto Vaporetto Stop
- After visiting, walk a short distance northwards to the left of the church, along the Calle Larga Piave to the northern coast and the Maddona dell’Orto Vaporetto.
- Marvellous views over the northern lagoon towards Venice’s main cemetery on the Isola di San Michele and Murano and the mainland coastal plain and the Dolomite Mountains (about 70Km away).
Option-1.
- Catch the waterbus to the Fondemente Nove (one stop east) and visit the Cemetery and/or Burano. From here, the Vaporetto also goes clock or anti-clockwise around Venice to get back to your home base.
- The Island of San Michele
- The Island of Murano
Option-2
- Walk back down to Madonna dell’Orto turn left (east) and walk to the end of the canal, to the Sacca della Misericordia – a large rectangular yacht basin.
- Take the small lanes south along the Canale della Misericordia until you reach the “Strada Nova” Turn left and after a few metres you can visit the wonderful Ca d’Oro, on the right.
- You can catch the vaporetto from here or walk down the Strada Nova to the Rialto Bridge to finish your tour.
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My other “District and Attractions” posts:
Districts and Attractions: Introduction
San Marco: District and Attractions
Castello: District and Attractions
Dorsoduro: District and Attractions
San Polo: District and Attractions
San Croce: District and Attractions
The Strada Nova in Venice This busy thoroughfare in southern Cannaregio, links the Santa Lucia Railway Station to the Rialto Bridge. Formed by unifying older narrow alleys under a modern name, it didn’t exist in Venice’s Serenissima era. Created in the 19th century by the Austrians, it reflects their effort to introduce wide boulevards. Canals were filled and buildings demolished to create the wide thoroughfare; which is now lined with historic landmarks, shops, cafés, restaurants and markets stalls; often crowded with tourists.
Introduction to Venice A great starting point to develop your understanding and enjoyment of this historic city and its lagoon environment. If you are planning a trip, or on limited time once there; this post will maximise your appreciation and enjoyment of this unique aquatic city.
Best High Views in Venice Campaniles and roof-top terraces and restaurants, offer new perspectives on the city; as well as a truly memorable experience.
VIDEO 11mins:Cannaregio | The Best Neighborhood of Venice Italy
VIDEO 25 mins:The Jewish Ghetto of Venice: History, Faith, Survival | FULL DOCUMENTARY
Cannaregio: District and Attractions Cannaregio: District and Attractions Cannaregio: District and Attractions