The Island of Le Vignole

A sparsely populated island just 1km northeast of Venice; the Island of Le Vignole is mostly agricultural in nature; but also a military site.

Distinct in character from the main city yet nearby, it remains seldom visited by tourists. It is situated between the islands of La Certosa to the west and Sant’ Erasmo to the south.

The island is accessible via a public ferry route, making it convenient to visit, possibly on the way to the larger, neighboring agricultural island of Sant’Erasmo.

Vignole consists of two separate islands linked by a bridge over a canal. The eastern section serves as a military zone with barracks for the Lagunari regiment. Additionally, a bridge connects this part to the nearby Sant’Andrea Island, which hosts the historic fort that once protected the lagoon’s main entrance from the Adriatic Sea.

Getting there

History

Today

Eating out

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Getting there

The Line 13 vaporetto from Fondamenta Nuove on the norther Venice coast, stops at Le Vignole and then on to Sant’Erasmo. It runs approximately every hour, although occasional services may stop by request only at Le Vignole (information is displayed on current timetables).

Island of Le Vignole – History

Formerly called Biniola, and also “Isola delle sette vigne” (Island of the seven vineyards). It is said, that it once supplied the Doge’s wine.

Historically, the island was used by the Romans and then the Venetians as a vacation resort. At the time, it directly faced the Adriatic Sea, as the Punta Sabbioni had yet to be formed. No doubt, the cooling sea-breezes were most welcome.

In the 7th century, two tribunes of Torcello decided to build a small church dedicated to St. John the Baptist and Sainte-Justine. From this construction, there remains a chapel dedicated to Sainte-Orosie (Sant’Eurosia) and a small bell tower.

Also important are the military presences: in addition to a long building once used as a powder store, Le Vignole is connected by bridge to the Island of Sant’Andrea. Here stands the historic fort of San Andrea, built for defensive purposes in the 1500’s; to a design by Michele Sanmicheli. It was one of Venice’s main defensive fortresses.

The islands in this part of the lagoon had considerable strategic importance, as they face Venice’s principal entrance from the Adriatic Sea. In fact, before the extension of the northern Lido di Cavallino; the sea came right up to their shores.

TODAY

Le Vignole seems rather forgotten and sleepy, although it is farmed and lived-in, rather than abandoned. The island is picturesque – a smaller and more unkempt version of Sant’Erasmo, and wildly different to its other neighbour, Venice.

Some of the land is carefully farmed; in other parts canals wind through marshy undergrowth.

Le Vignole is not an easy island to explore; the north-western part is primarily the area you can visit. The rest is private agriculture or military property.

The residents live in isolated farmstead-type buildings and are not keen on outsiders wandering through their land; fences, gates, barking dogs and ‘private property’ signs deter visitors from wandering the paths; which locals obviously use as thoroughfares.

From the ferry stop, on the north-eastern part of the island you can only walk a matter of yards on open ‘public’ path. This route leads away from the vaporetto stop along a wide canal which divides the island. After a short distance, you arrive at the island’s church; a little white chapel with small bell-tower, that is kept closed. This is all that remains of the 7th century church, dedicated to St. Erosia.

Over the bridge from the chapel, a signposted gateway leads to the Trattoria alle Vignole, a simple restaurant with outdoors space on the shore of the lagoon, facing Venice.

Left: Chapel with bell-tower, dedicated to St. Erosia.